Working wax with heated air

Whether you use a hair dryer or a paint stripper you are using a non-contact heat source to work and move the waxes. This is a complex subject but here is a quick overview.

All in all there is no ideal tool. The range of heats and air volumes involved mean that experimentation with any particular tool will reveal its working manner and resultant effects. This is a very complex subject.

HOT AIR GUN or Paint Stripper work use a model with at least 2 heat settings (better control). The volume of air blown out is not so great as a hair dryer but the temperature is much higher. This allows heating of the wax into a molten form without disturbance from too much air flow. For air blown effects a conical reducing nozzle can to be fitted to create a more concentrated blast of air (usually available from the manufacturer as an accessory). For blown effects which create less controlled backgrounds a strong air stream from a hair dryer can be used.

SAFETY
1. Do not use near or over water.
2. Do not use for a paint stripper for drying your hair & do not direct hot air towards yourself, other persons or flammable objects.
3. Work in well ventilated areas, wax fumes are not good for you! IF WAX SMOKES DURING WORKING IT IS TOO HOT - Over-heating wax can also damage the structure of wax making it brittle and poorer for long term durability.
4. The metal parts of Hot Air tools can get very, very hot! Do not place these parts in contact with any combustible material or surfaces that could be damaged or marked by heat.
5. Successful hot air work requires care and skill. Simple blown effects may be more easily achieved with a hot type of hair dryer.

BASIC METHODS OF USAGE.
Many Hot Air Guns provide 2 or more temperatures.
1. Setting 1 = 300°c
2. Setting 2 = 500°c

To create first effects take a piece of rigid card a little bigger than the work piece and cover it with clean backing paper. On a piece of painting card apply a good coating of clear wax medium all over. This acts like a flux and allows coloured wax to flow evenly all over the cards. Next apply the coloured waxes. It is easiest to apply these by dribbling them off the iron base-plate. A good quantity of wax is required in order to achieve complete coverage of the card when it is treated with the hot air.

Once the wax has been "laid" on the painting card gently heat it all over with hot air until it is glossy and molten . Then lift the rigid under-card off the work surface with the painting card on top and pan the card around until the molten wax has fully covered one area. From here direct the wax by "panning" the work until it flows to cover the whole card. You will not need to apply the hot air for the whole process and if smoke appears it is too hot.
KEEP THE AIR FLOW MOVING AROUND THE WORK PIECE ALL THE TIME - IT WILL GET HOT ENOUGH TO BURN THE CARD IF ALLOWED TO REMAIN IN ONE PLACE FOR TOO LONG!
Once completed the work pieces should be allowed to cool. The painting will now usually curl, but after several hours relax to a flat form. Glue this to a rigid card backing. [Some types of card will "pop" to produce bubbles and "buckle" creating an end result that can not be made flat again. This is caused by excessive heat which splits the layers of paper involved in lamination of the card].